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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.